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Cosmetic and Acne

Some people's make-up becomes a cover-up both physically and psychologically. They begin using such heavy make-up that part of their acne problem is acne cosmetics.

The beauty and health of the human skin is being undermined by one of the biggest campaigns ever waged in the history of merchandising. Every day on television, radio, magazine and newspapers, we are encouraged to put aside basic skin care ingredients like soap and water in favour of such complexion "aids" as cleansing creams, night creams, daytime moisturizers, face foundations and rouges.

While some people have skin capable of withstanding the damaging effects of cosmetics, an estimated 30% of all cosmetic users have skin which is acne prone.

Women and men alike, in their teens, twenties and even early thirties, are potential candidates for cosmetic acne. The condition is characterized by many elevated small whiteheads appearing over the cheeks and chin and sometimes the forehead. While cosmetic acne seldom leaves scars, it can be unsightly, persistent and troublesome. The skin's pores have a tough time dealing with the skin's own oil sebum, so rubbing in more irritating oils is one of the worst things you can do.

Even people who are not acne sufferers can actually develop acne through the use of their cosmetics. Since cosmetic acne usually appears subtly after several months of repeated use of a comedogenic (acne-producing) product, many women do not connect their outbreaks with the given product. The woman with cosmetic acne is in a vicious cycle; the more she breaks out, the more make-up she uses to cover it up... which only leads to more blemishes. Advertising confuses the issue. "Oil Free"--the Darling of Madison Avenue.

"Oil free" is fast becoming a favourite term of the cosmetic industry. Many cosmetic manufacturers are substituting chemicals which, legally speaking, are not considered oil free simply because they come from synthetic sources rather than from natural sources, i.e., animal, vegetable or mineral.

These synthetic oils, however, are often more acne producing than a natural oil such as mineral oil. Advertising claims for many cosmetic terms such as "oil free," "dermatologist tested" and "hypoallergenic" can be very misleading. Hypo-allergenic may mean the product is perfume-free, yet it could still contain ingredients harmful to acne-prone individuals. "Dermatologist-tested" may be accurate but not entirely helpful. The product may have been tested for skin allergy or skin irritancy and it's effects on skin pores may have been missed.

The Oil Migration Test.

Not all "oil-free" moisturizers for cosmetics are oil free; some contain oil-like synthetics that can provoke acne-prone skin. How to tell? Dab the moisturizer on good-quality stationery (imprinted 25% cotton fiber). Twenty-four hours later, hold the paper up to daylight and check for oil rings. The extent of migration will correspond to the percent of oil in the cosmetic.

The oil migration test is useful to deduct certain oils in cosmetics, but it is more important to learn to read the labels and avoid troublesome ingredients. Remember, not all oils are bad. Petrolatum and some lighter oils like mineral oil and sunflower oil don't penetrate down into the pore. What ingredients in cosmetics cause acne?

After the frustration of watching precipitate acne in many acne patients, chemists at Lacofar laboratory began testing the basic ingredients of more than 200 cosmetics to determine their effects on skin pores.

A word about sebum

Before we discuss cosmetic ingredients, we should consider the skin's own surface oil, sebum. Assuming that sebum is beneficial to the skin, cosmetic chemists have duplicated this substance. Unfortunately, however, we know of no benefits to be derived from sebum. This oil is simply a vestige whose function has been lost in the process of evolution. The last known use of sebum was a territorial make for male gerbils and hamsters.

The claim that sebum is necessary for moisturizing the skin is a little bit absurd when you consider that the finest skin is found in eight-year-old boys and eunuchs, neither of whom have any sebum.

Sebum does not even prevent wrinkles. Wrinkling, or aging of the skin, is a reflection of accumulated sun damage, and no moisturizer in the world is capable of reversing this exhaustion of tissues. Although functionless, sebum is complex, composed of six or seven principle ingredients, including triglycerides and squalene, a precursor of cholesterol. The triglycerides are broken down on the surface of the skin by bacteria to free fatty acids, which cause acne impactions in genetically predisposed families.

As we shall see, many cosmetics also contain these acids; but worse, cosmetics contain esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl mystrate or butyl stearate which are more potent even than our own fatty acids in the production of some acne lesions.

Three main categories of offending ingredients

Lanolins

Lanolin is, perhaps, the most common ingredient in cosmetics. Lanolin is simply sheep skin oil extracted from wool. The fatty acids in lanolin, like fatty acids in our own oil, tend to aggravate some acne in the skin of individuals with genetic tendency toward the disorder. Many lanolin derivatives currently being used in cosmetics are harmful to acne-prone individuals, i.e., etoxylated lanolins and acetylated lanolins. The partially synthetic lanolins are able to penetrate skin pores even better than natural lanolin. Lanolin oil, itself, is acceptable.

Isopropyl Myristate and it's Chemical Cousins

One of the worse offenders is a penetrating oil called isopropyl myristate, the major ingredient in a can of penetrating rust remover, Liquid Wrench. Isopropyl Myristate helps cosmetics apply more smoothly and gives them a slicker, sheer feel. This particular penetrating oil is so aggressive that if left over night in a beaker will actually migrate over the top, down the sides and onto the table top. There are may chemicals similar to isopropyl myristate in cosmetics. The most common are: isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isothermal, putty sterate, isostearyl neopentonate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, octyl sterate, octyl palmitate and isocetyl stearate and PPG myristyl propionate. All must be avoided, as must other surfactants such as laureth-4.

Drug & Cosmetic Pigments

Perhaps one the most troublesome recent findings about acne-producing potential is the red tints used in blushes. Some of the Drug & Cosmetic red dyes are comedogenic, which is not surprising considering they are coal tar derivatives. Ever since doctors noticed that acne was an occupational hazard of chimney sweeps, coal tar has been known for it's acne-causing properties.

An acceptable substitute for red color is carmine, a dye derived from insect wings and discovered by the Aztecs.

Currently acceptable cosmetics, moisturizers and hair pomades

Cosmetics

Almay-Fresh Look Oil Free Clinique-Pore Minimizer

Elizabeth Arden-Oil Free Make-up

Flori Roberts-Dermablend

Lancôme-Maqui Controle

Moisturizers

Alboline Lotion Shepard's Cream Lubriderm Lotion Mineral and Petroleum Oil Safflower and Sunflower Oil Hair Pomades Drest, Dep, Afro Sheen Mineral Oil and Petrolatum

These are examples of currently acceptable cosmetics for use on acne-prone skin. Although they may contain minute amounts of troublesome ingredients, they are small quantities as these products produce acceptable results when applied to the skin.